Ballybofey to Malin Head and the finish.

Woke this morning in Ballybofey with anticipation, apprehension, excitement and disbelief at what was in front of me today. I had tired legs and a sore body and had left myself 108km to the finish. Packing was easier this morning when I didn’t have to be too concerned were everything was.
A long steep drag out of town is my first encounter and thankfully Loretta is up to the task of making it easier for me. Rain is threatening but that’s not bothering me. The road levels out and becomes more downhill than uphill. So my average speed creeps up again as I whizz down into Letterkenny. 

I have half an arrangement to hook up with Paul, another CAS buddy who wants to travel a few miles with me. But that never worked out. The anticipation of riding with him, I haven't seen him in a while, sped me on a few more miles faster. So that was good. A very steep drop down into Letterkenny tested my brakes severely and also my wrists holding on tight. Then it was a turn away from the town and onwards to the sea and the Inishowen Peninsula. Beautiful views over the sea and the sun is now shining and I’m nicely warm.
 The village Burt for a coffee and a cake and a short relax before heading for Burnfoot and over the hill to Muff on the other side of the peninsula.
I had been to Muff before when I cycled on the Wild Atlantic Way.  Coming the other direction so I knew cycling down along the Foyle would be nice going and scenic. Seeing the sea again was a delight. Then after a few kilometres turning away again from it at Quigleys Point was a decision. I knew I had to climb whether I turned here or went on further to turn to Gleneely. I took what I considered the easier but longer option. A good decision I think. It was a stiff climb especially on my now wobbly legs. Cresting the hill I was in for a flat and downhill stretch to Carndonagh
Carndonagh was my next town and I felt the excitement when I see I have less than 20km to Malin Head and the finish. 

Time for a break and some sustenance. Apple tart and cream and coffee should do the job! Then it’s the final push. 

Malin village is only 6km away and it’s flat fast straight road. A natural break before a flat ride right along the Bay. 

I know there is a right turn coming which is going to take me into steep climbs. 

When it comes it’s a stinger for about 800 meters. 

I get a call from Monica who has arrived in Malin Head to greet me in. “I’m here! Where are you?”! 8km out! 

Then I see it in the distance. Looks straight ahead but the road isn’t going that way. Getting steeper in places now and menacing. 

Thoughts of the final climb to the summit of Mont Ventoux coming into my mind. I see cars at the top and people walking a bit higher up. The last kick, the snake of a short piece of road up to the tower. Even the cars are grinding up this stretch. Going slow climbing OMG! I’ll never get up there!
Granny gear make it work! Past the parked cars. Encouragement from drivers coming down. Can’t respond. Passed the cars in the carpark,  into pedestrians now. Kids! Get out of my way I can’t go around you. Can’t you see I’m choking here! 

Then there it is. The painted start/finish line, painted on the ground. Thank God for that! I’m finished!!

Last run into the Head

Monica came from Derry to meet me at the finish

Relaxing at Monica and Adrians home in Derry

The North Atlantic. Can't go any further!

Nearly there!

Who cares!!

Sligo to Ballybofey

Leaving Sligo in the rain was a disappointment.  But again it didn’t last too long. I had donned my cycling wet top for the occasion but it was too warm and cumbersome. It was getting wetter inside with sweat more than outside. So off it came and on went the fluorescent gilet. An essential piece of kit. Especially on these busy roads.
My first port of call was the graveside of WB Yeats in Drumcliff. “Tread softly cause you tread on my dreams”. A most tranquil and lovely place. Then onwards.
Rolling again now and headed for Bundoran and Ballyshannon. It’s great to be on the coast again. Seeing the sea makes everything so much easier.
I’m texting my friend John from Cycle Against Suicide, who lives in Ballyshannon and I’m promised coffee and scones so that’s driving me on too. My legs are very tired today my knee is getting sore and I’m twisting around my foot to try ease the pain. Works sometimes. 

Seeing John was a great boost to my morale and after “the Tae!” and a long catch-up I’m off again.
Bypassing Donegal town on a nice wide road and after a stop for ice cream i begin the steady drag up the Barnsmore Gap.
Barnsmore Gap was the place we were on the CycleAgainst Suicide 2014 when tragedy struck. It was a cold wet filthy morning as we headed up the Gap. The higher we got the filthier the weather became. Brenaun, one of our motorbike marshals had gone on ahead to block a side road for us, when there was a tragic accident and Brenaun lost his life. Worst time ever on CAS.
There is a stone , in his memory at the spot and I stop to pay my respects. I have the latest Cycle Against Suicide Jersey in my kit so I brought him up to date. In sadness I left him there and headed on to Ballybofey.

My route was sending me on a short by road but I consulted with with a truck driver in a lay-by, and concluded that the main toad was safer. Wider road with a shoulder. There I go again talking about road widths and hard shoulders! But he was right. Traveling on the N road was much safer in the long run. But don’t start me on ‘traffic calming measures!!” Another book!
The whole trip was pretty nice. Rolling is what I call it.
The weather got better as I rolled into Ballybofey. I thought I might get further today so it would leave me  a shorter final journey to the top tomorrow. But I was too tired and my backside was screaming at me to stop.
In my hotel they put me in a room with a disabled bathroom! I didn’t think I looked that bad 😃😄😎. I didn’t care. It had all I needed. Nice dinner a pint of Guinness and then bed.
Tomorrow is the day!!

Great to meet up with John in his home in Ballyshannon for 'the tae'!

Had to stop off in Ballyshannon to pay respects to Rory Gallagher

Brenauns memorial on Barnsmore Gap

Benbulbin in the background heading North out of Sligo

' Tread softly cause you tread on my dreams'

Wide shoulders

Counties Galway to Mayo to Sligo all in one day !😃

My Tuam hotel was quite adequate. I’ve been quite lucky all week with accommodation. 

Thing is, when I arrive at my destination of the day I just wanna get in somewhere and that’s usually the first place I come across that I check in with. The other thing I found out is that the ‘Bord Failte tourist offices’ will no longer find you a room! They will load you down with brochures of b&b’s and other places, but they don’t make bookings! I’m really not sure what they do do really! 

This time however I went into a bike shop in Tuam to look for a recommendation. Somehow I think if they sell bikes they will give a fellow bikers understanding and won’t put you wrong! But I’m not sure that works all of the time. The hotel was quite comfortable. Loretta got good warm digs and that was all I could expect for her.
I had  a lovely dinner and watched a bit of TV before bedding down for the night.
Heading out of Tuam on a bright fresh morning while the rest of Europe sweltered in 40 deg of heat, was a feeling of being cheated a bit. But thankfully no rain to spoil the party.
I’m not discussing road conditions or road users or the conditions of roads any more. I think I’ve said enough on the subject. You’ll just have to wait for the book. Book title should be an open competition.
It’s all pretty but non-descript scenery here. It’s almost flat with nothing to see. At times like that it can be a time to contemplate the greater thing in life or just zone out. It was in one of these zone out moments, I was on a long downhill stretch of road, I was passed by a truck who blew his horn at me! My instinctual response was my stock “ what the f**k!! “ Then  he pulled in ahead for me to stop I thought “what the f**k”!  

Driver standing on the road was Martin Duffy. An old CAS buddy who just recognized me on the road. It was great to see a familiar face. We had a good chat and catch-up before we headed off again. Him faster than  me 😃. Thanks Martin for the heads-up on the road conditions. Got narrow and dangerous for about 15km. I know I wasn’t going to say anything about roads today! 😎
Later that day I got another beep and a shout . Turned it to be my brother Seamus and Liz his wife. They were on holiday in Donegal and were Heading to Galway for the night. That was quite a surprise! They told me that Joanne, my niece and Darren and the kids were following some way back. Sure enough, I got another loud blast a few miles down the road as they passed. It was too narrow for them to stop , or me. But it was nice to see them anyway. 'Of all the bars in all the towns in all the world!'
Mostly downhill now into Sligo and I needed it today.
Sligo is a nice place to arrive to. But the last pull into town was a struggle. Into the first hotel for the bath! Sorted! .
Dinner and bed in that order.
Back to the Wild Atlantic Way tomorrow.....

What a contrast.... !

I stopped a lady on the Main Street in Ennis and I said, ‘ you look like a lady who may know! Where is a good hotel in Ennis?’ So she escorted me around the corner and showed me the Old Ground Hotel! It turned out to be perfect. Got a good welcome, they spirited off Loretta to her sleeping quarters and showed me mine.
A hot bath is a wonderful invention! Treated myself in their fine restaurant and was in bed by 10.
Morning broke early and breakfast was leisurely.

After breakfast I arranged to meet up with Aine. Aine was a good friend that had put me up some years earlier on a Cycle Against Suicide 14 day trip around Ireland. We had stayed in touch periodically and it was an opportunity for a catchup with her face to face again.
Heading out into the traffic I was still a bit wary from the buffeting yesterday. But the contrast was total. Single carriageway yes but a lovely wide shoulder. The traffic was heavy but we had a separation which was good.
I took a wrong road out of Ennis but it didn’t matter, both ways led to my next town, Gort. 

My road went through Crusheen. Great, because it paralleled the motorway which took all the traffic. So I had a straight, clear, slightly downhill 1%, wind assisted trip to Gort. 

Was ok until I reached Clarenbridge and I don’t know where the traffic came from. 

Traversing the dual carriageways around Galway was a noisefest. Roundabouts and detours. Even with my computer mapping I veered off my route again. I had loaded a few more km’s onto my trip but I held my nerve and got through it. 

Stopping in Claregalway for some lunch and a relax before the 25km jump to Tuam. I was hoping to get further today but Tuam was inviting.
Cycling along I make observations about roads and engineering of roads and wonder if the roads and road infrastructure are designed by children playing with Lego. But that’s the subject of another book all of its own. Kept asking imaginary council types... why did you decide to put that there? Why didn’t you finish that bit? Why did you stop there and start again 50 meters on up the road? Where is that footpath going cause it just stopped in a grass verge? Why didn’t you just.....?
Many questions! That’s how my day goes! But it’s all grist to the mill for me! Not happy unless I’m giving out!! 😜
Tomorrow is Sligo! Rain coming! “You have to learn to ride in the rain too”

Tips for wet gear!

This is only if you are caught out, get a good old soaking and are without your home comforts to affect a change of gear. First you gotta get rid of the grime! Into the bath with your gear on or off you! Your own choice. Choice is yours. Wrap wet gear in hotel towels and give em  a good wring out! Leave to dry overnight suspended somewhere! Hotel coat hangers are useless for this process. Shoes can be stuffed with newspaper . Although hotels usually don’t have any papers after brekkie! People filch them! An alternative is a hand towel stuffed into the shoe. After of course removing the insole. Insoles dry of their own accord.
Next morning the strategic use of a hair dryer or a smoothing iron will suffice to complete the job. Word of caution! Hotel irons are not as good as the wife’s one! ( I’ll be killed for that!) so you could burn your delicates! So beware! After that hang the offending article off the back of the bike and pedal like hell!
Job done!
Killarney hotels are full of old age pensioners on holiday trips on buses! Clogging up the morning dining room. Booking tables leaving little room for the rest of us ! Go figure!!
But I got my brekkie ok and prepared to head off.
The morning is quite nice. Even though it’s cloudy, rain is not forecast.
Rolling out of Killarney makes me happy. It’s not a town for me. All Irish music and paddy Wackery. Don’t get me wrong! I like Foster and Allen but over breakfast? No!
Bit of a climb out but stretches the legs which are tired after yesterday. Rolling now nearing Tralee. A great bike path around Tralee impressed me. But when it ended I was spat out into heavy traffic with no shoulder for miles. Stressful!
Listowel for ‘the healin’ and coffee was next. Great to be in the land of the mighty John B!
Checking ferry times I do what I vowed I wouldn’t. Put the hammer down to make the ferry time. This was supposed to be a relaxed trip! Luckily a lot of downhill ensued meaning I made the ferry with 20 mins to spare.
There I met Andy. Andy is doing the Wild Atlantic Way for the next 9 days. Has all his gear and a tent. Awesome! This is his first solo trip with touring bike and panniers.

Andy is doing the Wild Atlantic Way. Met him on the Tarbert Ferry

We are heading in opposite directions. He to Kilkee and me to Ennis.
Lissycasey eventually appears after a horrendous struggle with close passing traffic on the main road to Ennis. Very stressful.
I’m thinking ! Someday there will have to be nationwide compulsory psychology study done about what happens to us when we get into a motorized vehicle. We scare the living life out of everyone. Especially noticed by cyclists. For the sake of saving a millisecond on a journey I will scare the wits out of a poor sod on a bike! Rant over! 😜
Ennis is a welcome sight after 122km.
Now for a place to stay and sort myself for tomorrow.

Me and John B Keane in Listowel

Lisseycasey with a Magnu

I didn’t think it possible.........!

I didn’t think in all my years riding a bike, that you could get this wet outside of a swimming pool.

I left Goleen this morning in beautiful weather. What breeze there was was behind me and all was good. I was a little apprehensive setting out because I did know what was in front of me really. But I headed off at a nice gentle pace to get used to the rig that is Loretta, my bike. Durrus was my first marker then 14km onwards to Bantry.

My friend Gerry, who lives in Bantry, knew I was coming through and met me on the road between Bantry and Durrus. We pulled into a hotel in Bantry and he treated me to coffee and scones and we had a good catchup with his wife Lorraine and his dad Olan.

Leaving  Bantry it started to rain. Gently at first but before long it was heavy, then it went torrential!

Arriving in Glengarriff it was heaping it down. I wanted to stop there but seeing I was already soaked through and dripping I thought it better to keep going up the Caha Pass.

I didn’t think the rain could get worse ! But worse it got! Wasn’t taking time to come down! It was ‘stair rods’! No shelter either. Not that shelter would have done the job. I was already soaked through. At least it wasn’t cold! That was a blessing if there were any blessings going a-begging!

The Caha Pass is a nice gentle drag, not too taxing normally but as I got up the fog was coming to meet me and before long visibility was down to about 20 meters. I had to ride aggressively well out from the edge of the road so cars and those dreadful camper vans, could see me early.

Going over the top I wasn’t aware that it was the top. Which is quite disappointing because I know there is fabulous views from up there. 

The descent is a joy as I remember from the Rebel Tour of years ago. But this time I could take no chances being as I was, still in a fog with a river of water running down the road. My wrists were sore holding tight to the brakes.

 Kenmare appeared out of the mist and I just had to find a coffee stop. If only to dry my glasses. Coffee, cake and a decision to forget Molls Gap as it too was shrouded in the clouds and invisible. I decided instead to head for Healy-Rea country and go around the gap. Longer but safer in the end. I was used to the lashing rain by now and I definitely wasn’t getting any wetter. With it still heaping it down and water flowing from every origice I rolled into Killarney.

The tourist office was my destination. But I soon found out that they don’t do booking for you anymore.! What’s the point I ask myself. Wanted to load me down with brochures and suggested I get onto Bookings.com! 😄 Thanks but no thanks! Leaving a huge puddle in front of his desk, I took my leave.

Around the corner, a hotel! Single room? No problem! Sorted!

In the room to survey water damage! Thankfully, my panniers held out the wet for the most part. But there was some seepage. Clothes hanging everywhere now. Even over the Telly!

First thing was a hot soak in the bath and a washout of my smalls! In the bath 😎😄. No pride here !😃. Then down for some much needed food while listening to paddy-wackery music. 

Tomorrow I’m hoping to make Ennis but I haven’t seen the forecast yet. 

I think it was a mistake bringing only one pair of shoes/cycling shoes. Wet feet in the morning no matter what. But! The sun will be shining tomorrow! I’m convinced of it 😎

My CAS friend Gerry and Loraine and Alan his dad in Bantry for a catch-up

 

Blanket fog on top of Caha pass

A 'commissaire' on the Pass

A beautiful starting point

Mizen Head is a most beautiful place. With rocky wild hills and beautiful beaches st the southern most tip of ireland on the Wild Atlantic Way. And starting an Irish journey from here is magical when I consider the vast array of landscape I am about to encounter as I move north to meet the wild North Atlantic sea at Malin head. I am so lucky to be able to attempt this and I look forward to every pedal stroke. I have this propensity to ‘just get it done’ without taking in the joys of the day and smell the roses. I will try this time. I promise. 😃